Care and
Maintenance of Your Deck
Article
From HouseLogic.com
By:
Dave Toht
Published: November 30, 2009
Annual
deck maintenance will forestall repairs, protect your investment, and boost
your enjoyment of your outdoor space.
Because decks are exposed to the harshest elements, they
require annual maintenance. Most decks
(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/home-thoughts/deck-options/) should be
cleaned and sealed every year to protect wood components; even decks made of
composite or vinyl decking should be washed annually. Also, every deck should
be checked regularly for signs of rot and to ensure structural integrity.
Because a deck is a particularly good investment
(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/decks/deck-addition-value/) - returning
about 70% of its original cost, according to Remodeling Magazine's annual Cost
vs. Value Report (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2011/costvsvalue/national.aspx)
- it's a good idea to establish a routine of upkeep that'll protect your deck
and prevent expensive repairs. Here's a simple maintenance schedule to help
keep your deck safe, sound, and looking great.
Late spring: Wash the deck
Aside from general dinginess, one of the sure signs a deck
needs washing is a film of mold and grunge. Left unchecked, mold and dirt and
can trap moisture and cause rot.
Begin cleaning your deck by removing debris from between deck boards using a
putty knife. (For a makeshift extension that's a real knee-saver, try pushing
the handle of your putty knife into a length of 1¼-inch PVC pipe.
Some putty knives squeeze right in.)
Or, buy a pole-type groove and crevice cleaner. Pay
special attention to the areas where deck boards cross the joists-the
structural members underneath the decking. Thoroughly sweep the deck.
For a wood deck, use a standard deck cleaner--about $20 for 250 sq. ft.
coverage. Or, make your own with a half bleach, half water solution. Choose a
cloudy day when the decking is cool and the sun won't evaporate the cleaner.
Protect all shrubs and plantings with plastic sheeting. Apply the cleaner
according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Once the decking is cleaned, tackle the railing. Working from the bottom up,
apply the cleaner, scrub, and then rinse. Working from the top down splatters
the cleaning solution onto dry wood where it can double-bleach the surface,
leaving marks that don't go away when the lower area is washed. Working from
the bottom up means you'll be splattering onto a wet surface where the cleaner
is diluted, leaving no marks.
For composite decks
(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/decks/evaluate-your-house-deck/), use a
cleaner specifically formulated for use on composite material. Scrub with a
soft brush. Do not use a pressure washer-it can permanently damage the decking
and will void any warranty. Remove rust and leaf stains with a deck brightener
containing oxalic acid. Attack grease and oil stains with a commercial
degreaser and detergents. Mold and mildew can be kept under control with the
use of a deck wash solution twice a year.
For vinyl (cellular PVC) decking-the closest thing to a maintenance-free
material-you'll only need to use warm water and a mild soap to remove mold,
mildew, and dirt. Scrub in a circular motion using a stiff broom, then rinse
thoroughly.
Late spring: Seal the deck
The finish on your deck may be so woebegone that it's
obvious it needs resealing, but if you have doubts, try the water test. Splash
some water onto the deck. If it beads up, all's well. If it soaks in, it's time
to wash and reseal the deck.
Wash the deck as described above and allow it to dry for 48 hours before
sealing. Use a pole sander equipped with 80-grit paper to remove any furriness
caused by washing.
Sealers and stains are available at home improvement centers for about
$30/gallon-enough to cover 250 sq. ft. of decking. Your finish options include:
•Clear sealer that
lets the wood's natural grain and color show through
•Toner that adds a
bit of color but fully reveals the grain and provides some protection against
sunlight (ultraviolet or UV light)
•Semi-transparent
stain that tints the wood, but lets some grain show
•Solid stain and
opaque color that seals weathering damage and completely covers the grain
Expect to recoat clear sealers and toners annually. Recoat
stain finishes as needed (every other year is a good routine), using the same
or a slightly darker color. Be sure to wear gloves, a safety mask, and eye
protection when applying stain and sealers. Use a roller to apply the sealer to
the decking, covering three or four boards at a time. Use brushes and small
rollers for railings, planters, and benches.
Some composite decking can be stained to restore its color. Be sure the product
is intended for composites. Don't expect the same density of color that you
would achieve with wood. Deck sealants aren't required or recommended.
Midsummer: Inspect and repair your deck
When the weather is warm and dry, it's a good time to give
your deck's structure (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/home-thoughts/deck-options/)
a close inspection. Pay particular attention to any areas within 6 inches of
the ground or close to sources of water, such as downspouts and planters.
Look for signs of rot by probing structural members with a flat-blade
screwdriver. Begin by checking stairs, especially where the stringers (the
saw-tooth notched pieces that support the steps) meet the ground. Also check
each perimeter post. If you can push the screwdriver a quarter-inch or more
into a suspect area, you probably have rot.
Areas of rot that are no bigger than a silver dollar can be removed with a
chisel and the hole can be treated with wood preservative. Larger areas may
require the structural member to be replaced. Consult a professional carpenter
or builder for an estimate for repairs.
If the underside of your deck is accessible, use a flashlight to inspect
joists, posts, and beams
(http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/decks/smart-upgrades-decks/). Pay
special attention to the ledger-that all-important piece of framing that
attaches the deck to the house. An estimated 90% of collapsed decks resulted
from the failure of the ledger. However, not all decks have ledgers. Some are
free-standing-a beam and posts located within a few feet of the house indicate
a free-standing deck system.
The ledger should be attached with lag screws, not just nails. The flashing-the
metal cap that covers the top of the ledger and prevents moisture from getting
behind the siding-should be free of rust and holes. Check all the hardware
underneath, especially joist hangers, and replace any that are seriously
rusted. Probe for signs of rot on the posts and joists. If anything looks
doubtful, call in a pro to provide an estimate for any needed repairs.
If a framing member can't be easily removed and replaced, reinforce it. For
example, if a joist shows areas of rot, you can add a splint of comparable
pressure-treated lumber along side it, attaching the splint with two or three
3-inch deck screws every 12 inches. Then chisel away the rotten area and paint
the raw wood with preservative.
Topside, look for cracked or rotten decking boards. Not all cracks are a
structural threat, but they'll get worse with time. If you find damage, replace
the piece. Areas of cupping can be sanded down.
Give the railing a good shake to be sure posts are not loose or damaged-loose
connections may be remedied by drilling pilot holes and adding galvanized lag
screws. Look for cracks that, over time, may have developed around fasteners
such as nails or screws. To remedy, remove the fastener and seal the crack with
an exterior-grade adhesive. Then, drill a new pilot hole and add a new
galvanized deck screw.
Early fall: Preventive measures
If the decking was nailed, you'll likely find some nail
heads popping out. A short-term solution is simply to pound them back in using
a hammer and a thick nail set. For a longer lasting solution, pull out each
protruding nail and drive in a deck screw slightly longer than the nail. (When
pulling out the nail with a hammer or pry bar, use a scrap of wood as a fulcrum
for greater leverage and to avoid damaging the deck.) If a nail only slightly
protrudes, you may do more harm than good trying to pull it out. Pound it home.
To slow mold, moss, and rot, keep nearby bushes and trees cut back at least 12
inches from the deck. Don't let leaves and other debris pile up in corners.
Move planters, chairs, and tables occasionally to avoid discoloring the
decking. Keep nearby gutters and downspouts in good repair.